Warning – long post!! I realize this is an old post, but for readers looking for advice for laying tile themselves, I have some recommendations. I chose 1″ hex for my first tile job, also. Ignorance is bliss. Here are some things I did and would do differently had I to do it over.
Most importantly, do your homework. Do not rely on the sales staff in the tile aisle at the big box store to give you the right advice. I can’t stress this enough. I read for about 4 months from a great free forum, John Bridge Tile Forum, and asked a lot of questions (plus you can read all about others’ mistakes and learn from them). The pros on the John Bridge forum, bless their hearts, are so patient and thorough in answering even the stupidest questions. Use the search function on the site…chances are good someone has asked your question before. This forum was my primary source of information, and they did not steer me wrong.
Often, the premium materials that the pros use don’t come from Home Depot or Lowe’s but, of course, the sales staff at the big box store will sell you what they’ve got. Could be ok, or not. Again, the pros at John Bridge can give you recommendations.
Along those same lines, learn the terms. Thinset is what you use to “glue” the tiles down. Grout is what you use to fill up the gaps. Should you use sanded or unsanded grout? Use the right size and type of “trowel” for the tile you’re laying to spread your thinset. Read and follow the directions. If the thinset needs to set up for 10 min, do it. If you use 1″ hex, use the recommended trowel to avoid the thinset oozing up between tiles. It’s no fun digging it out with a toothpick. Buy the huge, yellow sponge to wipe off the grout (according to the correct period of time to allow it to firm up some). Buy a rubber “float” to force the grout into the joints. Learn to use “nippers” – just takes patience and nip a little at a time. Must have a manual tile “scorer”. Practice. (Sorry, there’s probably a more professional term for it.) A decent wet saw is around 25.00 at big box stores and is easy to learn to use. Expect to get wet but it is essential for making clean cuts. Buy the right size spacers. None of these tools cost a lot. I could go on but the bottom line is that you will need “accouterments” in order to do a professional looking job.
Lastly, be involved in the prepping of the floor prior to laying the tile. My biggest mistake and it ruined the entire job. But it was too late. A carpenter doesn’t necessarily know what to do to prepare a floor for tile. I knew this but didn’t catch my carpenter in time and thought if I put down extra screws, it would be ok. Nope. YOU MUST GLUE THE CEMENT BOARD TO THE SUBFLOOR WITH THINSET, THE SAME GLUE YOU USE TO ADHERE THE TILES, AND WHILE THE THINSET IS WET, SCREW THE CEMENT BOARD TO THE SUBFLOOR. This prevents movement of the floor from weight and changes in temperature. It doesn’t take much movement to cause the grout to continually crack everywhere the sheets join. And it will. Ask me how I know. Your only recourse is to periodically remove and replace the grout (often) or remove the tile and cement board and start over. It ruined my entire job.
One more thing, (promise), consider using the Schleuter system. It adds to the cost but results in a no fail, no leak job. John Bridge and the moderators on the forum are believers in the products. You can order Schleuter materials online and the forum provides an ebook with detailed instructions. I used the system and found it easy to install.
I hope I have been helpful. Any GIRL or guy can do this correctly, it just takes educating yourself and utilizing a professional source of information.
Once you experience tiling, visiting the tile aisle will bring you a feeling of empowerment and joy. :)))))
